Batad, Belting and Back

When we got to the view at the top of the amphitheatre, Rachel told us the next part of the hike was optional – down through the village, across the rice terraces, and then another optional part down to the Tappia waterfall and back up. Well, since we hadn’t had to climb the steep uphill between the Junction and the Saddle, I was game, and Bill was persuaded as well. We picked our way through the terraces along the stone walls, sometimes going up or down stone steps that jutted out just enough for a toehold. We went past fields in all stages of rice production, from flooded dirt to sprouting to growing blades to ready-to-harvest. The intensive labor required to keep these is amazing – people spend all day tending the fields, and also eat snails and fish that they catch there. We passed some traditional Ifugao huts and Rachel showed us the poles with discs to keep rats out, the big mortar and pestle, the winnowing baskets, the chicken coops, the retractable ladders, the grass roofs (though more and more there are corrugated-metal roofs now).

At the other side of the amphitheatre, Bill decided to stop for a rest, and Rachel and I went down some steep steps (they became even steeper on the way back up) to the waterfall, where Johnny, Janet and May Lynn had spent the morning (Janet is the Australian volunteer I met in Baguio way back when and I have seen May Lynn several times – I am glad that they were the volunteers here at the same time). So never mind the small waterfall in Sagada – I had a nice view here! No dip though – I didn’t want to leave Bill alone for too long (though he was fine, chatting with all the trekkers that came through in both directions). Reunited, Rachel took us up the back of the amphitheatre so we had another way to get back to the top (my camera battery died at the waterfall, but I’ll get copies of everyone else’s – this was quite a vantage point). We had pre-ordered lunch – more vegetable fried rice for me! – and then we hiked back up to the Saddle and then down the steep slope to the Junction (no jeepney hitchhiking – which I’m glad about! It was a nice walk down the part we hadn’t walked up).

I had thought about it when I planned the trip, and a Filipino mentioned it to us on the jeepney in Baguio, and PCVs were talking about it in Sagada, but somehow, on that hike down into Batad, I completely forgot that it was on that trail that PCV Julia Campbell was murdered a few years ago (maybe it was the female mojo, or other Batad magic; interestingly, some of the volunteers who had gone on the way to Sagada said they felt spooked. I felt anything but). She was alone, out of site, and it was random violence, but it’s hard to fathom.

Back in Banaue, Bill went off to shower and Johnny took May Lynn, Janet and me shopping. Then he offered to serenade us with a friend at a local restaurant. The friend, Derek, had a guitar and a beautiful voice. I haven’t done any videoke yet here but now was my time to sing. Derek sang a few songs and asked for requests. He looked at me and I went completely blank (my second time here – the first time was when Mr. Jugo asked me to speak at a Monday devotion). Janet went blank too, and May Lynn asked for some Beatles. Good answer – why didn’t I think of that? We were pressured/encouraged to sing, and it was fun to sing along, though I realize I am really shy when it comes to singing in public! Other than The Star-Spangled Banner and Take Me Out To The Ballgame, I can’t remember the last time I sang with a group of people.

The owner of the restaurant joined us and also played and sang, and he had extra food brought out for us. We made our way through Beatles songs. I love Simon and Garfunkel but realized that many of the songs require key changes that I couldn’t handle well. I found myself singing alone in a pin-drop-quiet restaurant when it came to “Words,” the old Bee Gees song. I think if I’m ever asked to sing again here, that’ll be my song! They sang some “OPM” (Original Pinoy Music – I would like to get some, but most of what I hear here is our music – for example, I don’t know if it’s big there, but the big song here is “Nobody nobody but you”). It was a great way to spend our last night of vacation!

Bill, May Lynn and Janet left early the next morning; I got up to see them off. Bill had been with me from the beginning but wanted to get back and do laundry etc. I decided I wasn’t in such a rush. I had another massage in my room and walked around the town. Then I went to another museum, this one connected with our hotel (and with the Yale anthropologist). Katie and Theo, who we had met at consolidation – and she came to the build while he was in the hospital – and who we had seen in Sagada – came into town on their way back to Manila. Drew was up and around by then, so we all went for a late breakfast for the guys and early lunch (more vegetable fried rice!) for the gals. Drew and I then took a jeepney to another jeepney to maybe the coldest air-con bus yet (but since I had thought it would be cold in the mountains, at least I had things to wear – I hadn’t used them much otherwise!). I finished my mystery just after it got dark (thanks to the flashlight on my phone and then Drew’s headlamp). We got to Manila around midnight, which was perfect. It’s taken a while to tell the tale – I hope I’ve conveyed that it was a wonderful trip. Now for some pictures!